The Midnight Diners is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.
A minute after walking into Tallboy, Oakland’s new self-styled “martini dive bar,” I thought I may have made a mistake in coming here. It wasn’t just that this was the most crowded bar I’d been in since pre-pandemic times, with a throng of people three deep all the way around the big, horseshoe-shaped bar counter. It was more that all of the hip party people in Oakland seemed to have packed themselves into this unmarked, dimly lit watering hole in Temescal, and we couldn’t have felt more out of place. Sharply dressed twenty-somethings were doing rounds of Jell-O shots, and the buzz of boisterous conversation was so loud, I couldn’t even really hear the music — all I could make out was a thumping electronic bass line. I had to raise my voice to almost a shout just to be heard by the person right next to me.
And all we’d wanted was to eat some hot dogs at 10 o’clock on a Friday night. So it felt like maybe we had come to the wrong place.
What I do like, however, is a bar with a legible theme. And among Oakland’s new cocktail spots, Tallboy has the clearest, most appealing three-word elevator pitch: hot dogs and martinis. Or, as the bar has branded itself online, “’tinis and weenies” — a TikTok dinner party trend turned into a whole brick-and-mortar business. The cocktail list is mostly martinis and martini-adjacent drinks — seven different varieties served in classic V-shaped martini glasses, plus shot-size “teeny-tinis” and frosty espresso martini slushies. The food menu, meanwhile, is all hot dogs. And we’re not talking your average bar weenie, but an entire menu of whimsically souped-up vegan hot dogs created by the team behind the recently closed vegan Singaporean sensation, Lion Dance Cafe.
’Tinis and (plant-based) weenies is the promise of a particular kind of good time — the kind of high-low schtick that plays particularly well online. The important thing is that once we finally squeezed into a spot at the counter, we found out that Tallboy’s martinis and hot dogs are both uncommonly good. The dirty martini I ordered came vigorously shaken and was cold and refreshing as hell, shot through with enough olive brine to make it taste a little bit like the sea. If I were less of a lightweight, I would have happily thrown back two or three of them.
This post was originally published on this site be sure to check out more of their content.
