PARIS — In between runway shows, WWD stopped by presentations and showrooms here to check out what’s new in shoes and bags from accessories brands. Here’s a roundup of highlights, spotlighting essential designs reworked with crafty techniques, arty embellishments or simple, graphic lines to enhance the focus on textures and high-quality materials.
Alexandre Birman
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The Brazilian shoemaker continued to celebrate his roots and home country’s natural wonders as part of “The Power of Brazil” project. This time, Birman explored the vast and contrasting landscapes of Caatinga and Cerrado and was particularly inspired by the sand dunes and crystal-clear natural pools in the Lençóis Maranhenses national park in developing his expansive spring collection.
As result, the lineup touched on different styles, inspirations and techniques, mainly playing on natural materials and earthy tones. Highlights included the Maeve and Tita family of flats, mules and kitten-heeled pointy slingbacks made from braided raffia, as well as the brand’s signature Clarita line revisited with raffia embroidery winking to broderie anglais, as seen in feminine espadrilles and platform sandals.
For those looking for more eye-catching styles, Birman nodded to the mirrored effect on Lençóis Maranhenses’ pools in a series of silver strappy sandals with crystal embellishments, while he played with butter, mint and electric blue hues in the Sierra line, featuring napa leather mules and slingbacks in different heights embellished with multicolored crystals at the front.
Delvaux
In addition to unveiling its avant-garde collaboration with ePaper technology leader E Ink with a limited-edition capsule collection of color-changing bags, Belgian luxury brand Delvaux staged another striking presentation that highlighted its rich heritage and craftsmanship and stressed its ties to the art world.
The company tasked Harry Nuriev to come up with a modern installation contrasting the artisanal appeal of its collection. Standout halls included one dedicated to Art Nouveau and nodding to the work of Belgian architect Victor Horta by revisiting Delvaux’s Pin bucket bag with floral appliqués, whimsical designs and meticulous beading techniques. Another room celebrated the brand’s patronage of the “Surréalisme” exhibit at Centre Pompidou by evoking the iconography of Belgian surrealist René Magritte in styles such as the Brillant handbag, revisited with embroideries and sinuous handles, or mood-boosting apple-shaped leather goods.
Létrange
Létrange explored the underwater world in a capsule collection of bags doubling as art pieces that was developed with the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco. Dubbed “L’Éscale à Monaco,” the exclusive range tweaked key styles of the heritage handbag brand with hand-painted designs of undersea creatures — encompassing seashells, corals, seahorses and octopuses — which in some cases were further elevated with 3D effects via crystal embroideries.
Styles ranged from the envelope-shaped pouches Passagère to the Égo bags inspired by Japanese origami. In particular, an Égo mini bag hand-painted with a starfish motif will be among the pieces going on auction at the institute next month. Yet the show-stopper of the collection was a new iteration of Létrange’s signature Empreinte bag, where the minimal design enriched with a sculptural handle was crafted in galuchat leather.
Chairman and seventh-generation family member Sébastien Létrange said that every style in the range was made in three pieces and underscored that this was not a one-off collaboration between the two parties, teasing that a winter collection is in the pipeline, too.
Aeyde
After going physical with pop-ups in Europe and an expanded international fan base, Berlin-based cult brand Aeyde is gearing up for its 10th anniversary next year by flanking its ever-expanding women’s assortment with a unisex range. This will comprise styles such as the Meena suede sandals, the Thekla ones in leather and the Harris boat shoes, all available up to size 46.
Meanwhile, for spring 2025, founder Luisa Dames continued to build on her successful formula of functional, sleek designs and sweet-spot prices with new takes on the brand’s minimal designs and graphic additions. For one, she revisited the Danielle and Tara kitten-heeled mules and slingbacks, respectively, in technical grosgrain in different colors or in a striking zebra ponyhair version. Embellished with metallic eyelet detailing and buckle on the front, the styles oozed ‘90s vibes, which also resonated in new renditions of the bestselling Uma flat mary janes, here offered both with the eyelet embellishments or in a mesh version with contrasting squared toe.
A retro flair also marked the essential lines of the new Nova leather pumps with chunky, architectural heel and the Cosima mid-heeled derbies playing with masculine and feminine codes.
Manu Atelier
Turkish accessory brand Manu Atelier is also marking its 10th anniversary with an image elevation via subtle rebranding, a more timeless approach to design and betting big on its new icons. These include Le Cambon, a bag introduced last season as an evolution of the Tote du Jour capacious style and that in just few months appeared in the hands and arm crooks of the likes of Katie Holmes and Barbara Palvin, skyrocketing the demand for its minimal design embellished with a tiny metal buckle.
Even if founders and sisters Beste and Merve Manastır are committed to keep their own pace in terms of production to preserve their brand’s artisanal approach, they decided to offer additional options to their customers introducing both a mini size and maxi version of the bag. The latter was a highlight as it amplified the versatility and sophisticated look of the design, especially when crafted from smooth leather in hazelnut color. This added to versions in grained leather and suede, available in brown, beige and the new Merlot hue, among others.
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Serge Ruffieux and Emilie Faure’s brand is also experiencing a positive momentum. Earlier this year, it launched its first collaboration with Suicoke and went into handbags, a category that the duo further expanded for spring with new takes on the inaugural Cuddle design, including a softer, croco-embossed leather version.
Yet footwear remains at the core of the label launched in 2021, as Ruffieux kept building on his combination of comfort, functionality and eccentricity with new styles. These ranged from his take on the ballerina flat — which made for the brand’s first round-toed design and came with contrasting colors as well as straps, metallic studs and buckle — to his first slingbacks, marked by a pointy toe, as seen in a leather iteration with a snake effect, bright orange tip and dotted by crystals. Total black vinyl boots and an essential version of the Scrunchie flip-flop design with the brand’s signature Egg heel also made for more approachable yet eye-catching shoe options for unconventional fashionistas.
Cazabat
The comeback of the ‘70s bohemian trend kickstarted with Chemena Kamali’s successful debut collection at Chloé earlier this year also benefited French shoe designer Jean-Michel Cazabat, who was already working to include slouchy leather boots and fringed styles in his spring collection.
Cazabat, who introduced the label this year after spending more than three decades in New York working with top fashion houses, launching his eponymous brand in 2000 and moving back to his homeland during the pandemic, seemed eager to accelerate the growth of his new brainchild.
Product-wise, he expanded the assortment, touching on different themes, flanking the more casual, boho-inspired options with strappy sandals in bright metallic hues, slingbacks with organza embellishments and leather mules with a graphic heel. Retail-wise, the brand opened its first pop-up store in Paris’ central rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré during fashion week, which will run until Jan. 15.
Giaborghini
The dynamic world of Giaborghini stretched in three directions this season, as the brand presented its main collection developed under the guidance of the current editor in residence and Paris-based stylist and creative consultant Georgia Pendlebury, and capsules created with Kylie Jenner’s stylists Mackenzie and Alexandra Grandquist, as well as with Elsa Hosk’s brand Helsa.
The main collection had a strong focus on comfort with puffy strap sandals and flip-flops with a sporty vibe, in addition to high-heeled ones with a seductive interplay of lines enveloping the foot.
Launching this month, the see-now-buy-now capsule range created with the Grandquist sisters referenced the ‘90s with high-heeled pointy mules and wedged flip-flops rendered in a classic palette of black, white and nude tones.
The collaboration with Hosk was inspired by the model’s passion for interior design, shared with the brand’s founder Barbara Borghini, instead.
“After meeting Barbara and the team on a few occasions, it all fell into place and when I was proposed a collaboration, I felt like it could be the perfect extension to my style and my clothing line,” said the model. “The result is a product of love, attention to detail and the finest materials and traditional Italian techniques mixed with my timeless yet cool personal style.”
The range hinged on five styles playing with masculine-feminine duality and intended to address day-to-night occasions. These comprised Money loafers in croco-effect leather; soft Granny slippers with rounded toe; Peekaboo ones with laser-cut details; sexy Boss mules and Lady pumps with an asymmetric silhouette and offered in zebra or leopard patterns.
Joseph Duclos
Ramesh Nair is on a mission to push the limits of craftsmanship at Maison Joseph Duclos, the brand he joined after making a name for himself at Hermès, Jean Paul Gaultier and Moynat. Nair is perpetuating his goal via simple designs with complex manufacturing processes, as proved in new, all-black versions of the Diane handbags with neon detailing on a metallic hardware outlining the style’s minimal shape. He revisited the Diane clutches, too, by combining calf and exotic leathers, such as alligator and lizard.
“The idea to create the bi-material Diane clutch came from the desire to craft something exclusive, unique and eco-responsible at the same time. In the course of researching materials, we developed certain precious skins like lizard and crocodile in special finishes or colors. These skins are always of the highest quality but often insufficient to make an entire series of bags. So I look for ways to combine them with other materials to achieve a unique look,” said Nair about the line, which is available in limited numbers. (For a limited number of wallets, too, as prices will span from 6,500 euros for the taupe clutch with glossy lizard up to 17,000 euros for the one mixing black calf leather and metallic bronze alligator.)
Duha
The founder of this new brand might look familiar. Before introducing Duha, Tunisian architect Duha Bukadi launched the label Pupchen. After that, she started to explore the world of footwear during the first lockdown in 2020. Her first venture quickly garnered attention for its playful and eccentric high-heeled styles, but the high positioning and Bukadi’s uncompromising commitment to a top-notch, made-in-Italy product challenged the young label’s approachability.
Fast-forward two years — during which Bukadi regrouped with ideas and strategies also with a little help of industry veteran and Nicholas Kirkwood’s former chief executive officer Christopher Suarez — and a new namesake brand emerged from the ashes. Duha has a cleaner aesthetic, more wearable designs as well as a Brazil-based production ensuring more flexibility and a sweeter price point between 350 euros and 500 euros, on average.
Highlights included minimal, feminine satin sandals in pastel colors and a graphic slingback mixing leather, suede and PVC. With their 2.75-inches heels, both styles aim to target nighttime occasion with comfort, but Bukadi included satin ballerina flats and mesh flat mules just in case, too. The founder is already eyeing a category expansion, as she aims to launch ready-to-wear, handbags and eyewear next year.
Osoi
If you think about buildings, bags and shoes, the one thing they have in common is function, hence Osoi creative director and trained architect Hee-jin Kang’s attraction to “functional volumes.” That’s what drew her to design and eventually launching the brand eight years ago in Seoul. Named after a Japanese word that translates as “slow,” with the implication of a steady and considered approach, the brand prides itself on being aware of trends without following them.
It gained traction thanks to its of-the-moment shapes, smart under-500-euros price point, and hardware, developed in-house and often patented. Take the round hinge of the puffy Brot line or the Y2K flair of the Brocle bag featuring a giant buckle.
Osoi has a clutch of international stockists, including Zalando online and Printemps in Paris as well as U.S.-based independent retailers. Now ready to take the next step on the international market, it hosted a Paris Fashion Week pop-up in the Marais. Set against the raw arches and skylight of a gallery in the Marais, Kang intended her wares, including the brand’s footwear, to stand as sculptures.
Songmont
The Beijing-based accessory brand Songmont — a name that derives from the founder’s Chinese name Song, meaning a pine tree under the mountain — expanded globally through digital channels since the COVID-19 pandemic struck. Its democratically priced bags made from eco-friendly materials have been gaining organic traction. With its first showroom in Paris for spring 2025, the brand is looking to expand via wholesale and give the Western fashion industry a proper introduction.
In a grotto-inspired installation made from recycled cupboards, the brand showcased its bestselling tote bags — one made from marine debris fragments — and new season offerings: leather-trimmed canvas top-handle bags and backpacks big enough for a trip down the forest, and the Yore hobo bag in sandal and onyx vegetable-tanned, aged-effect leather, as seen on Kelly Rutherford.
PabePabe
If you’re one to pack everything and the kitchen sink in your purse, then you could add the rest of the house too, thanks to Hong Kong-based label PabePabe.
“I always look at chairs, the details of the chairs and the precautions and how they actually aged,” said cofounder Logan Chan. “And I always sit on a chair — relaxing.”
The lineup included a foldable chair purse that could actually be sat on, but also smaller ones featuring a plug socket and even a functioning lamp. Remove the lampshade, zip its bottom and hey, presto, you have a graphic half-moon purse. As for the doorknob and lock models, they came from “basically thinking how to lock a bag,” Chan continued.
The brand’s surrealist take is a growing hit. It currently has more than 20 stockists in China and has now opened two of its own stores, with plans for more.
Ruslan Baginskiy
Ruslan Baginskiy continues to mine the artisanal heritage of Ukraine in this new collection, where straw takes pride of place in new iterations of his bestselling baker boy cap and other summer headgear. Witty caps with patches inspired by the stickers found on fruit are also part of the offering. He also pushed the idea of sculpture with hat shapes crafted out of iron, beeswax or wood, an exhibition meant to highlight the breadth of crafts to be preserved in his war-torn homeland.
The ANDAM accessories prize winner is also making inroads with other categories with new colorways to his straw hat-bag — or is it a bag you can wear on your head? — and a dress made of the linen scarves women traditionally wear as kerchiefs.
– Lily Templeton and Tianwei Zhang contributed reporting to this article.
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