So what doesn’t work? Chefs agree the trickiest part of the equation can be the bun — especially if the toppings verge on overkill. “Appropriately sizing the vessel for the dog can be really tricky sometimes,” Rowe said. “It’s gotta hold together without falling out the bottom or spilling over the sides.” He favors Martin’s potato rolls, both with and without sesame seeds, either toasted or steamed. “It’s always a heated-up bun. That’s really important.”
The quest for the ideal bun has proved elusive for Trick Dog founder and owner Josh Harris, who rolled out the burgers-and-dogs takeout project Quik Dog during the pandemic. (It’s set to open a brick-and-mortar in Mission Bay later this year.) “In all my years of looking at buns for hot dogs and things in the shape of hot dogs, I haven’t found one I like,” he said.
He’s searching for that perfect intersection of flavorful and supple, a bun that can handle a thorough toasting and survive through a meal — or a delivery — without coming apart. Many buns work great only if you eat the dog right away, Harris said. Perversely, “the craftier the bun and the more expensive it is, the worse it is.” So Quik Dog uses Bimbo, the multinational bakery whose portfolio of grocery-store brands includes Arnold and Sara Lee. Consequently, in spite of Trick Dog’s renown and pedigree, Harris is adamant that its $13.95 Mission Dog (all beef, with onion, fire-roasted jalapeño spread, sautéed onions, mustard, and “Doggie sauce”) is anything but fancy.
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