Steve’s Snappin’ Dogs, which spent two decades slinging hot dogs on East Colfax Avenue, will soon be replaced by a family-owned eatery – Mama Jo’s Biscuits & BBQ.
The concept, helmed by husband-and-wife Ben and Jodi Polson, will bring some Southern flair to the neighborhood with handmade smoked gouda biscuits and Carolina-style barbecue; but it will still keep some of Steve’s fan-favorite items on the menu, including the Chicago and Atlanta dogs, the smashburger and Steve’s Snappin’ Ale (which is brewed by Bull & Bush Brewery).
Ben, a former corporate chef for Compass Group, recalled the moment they decided to turn their food truck into a brick-and-mortar. “We went online to see what properties were available and when we saw Steve’s was for sale, our jaws dropped.”
“We know a lot of people are upset that Steve’s is closing, we’re one of them,” added Jodi, who will soon be transitioning out of her role as Coperta’s executive pastry chef.
The menu at Mama Jo’s, 3525 E. Colfax Ave., will include everything currently found at the food truck – like their popular Nashville hot chicken biscuit, spare ribs, pulled pork, smoked jackfruit, collard greens and house-made barbecue sauces – plus new items like a fried green tomato biscuit sandwich, Texas toast, brisket and banana pudding pie. For drinks, there will be beer and wine, fountain drinks and Cheerwine – a cherry-flavored soft drink quintessential to Carolina.
Remaining true to Carolina barbecue is key for the couple. “Texas is mainly known for brisket, and Carolina is known for pulled pork. We put a dry rub on the pork and hickory smoke it for eight hours until it’s tender, then we dress it with a spicy vinegar sauce,” Ben explained. The jackfruit goes through the same process.
As for the biscuits, they’re “a labor of love,” Jodi added. “We put smoked gouda in them, which adds a good depth of flavor with some smokiness and saltiness. Then, we laminate them so the layers bake up perfectly flaky, and they come out nice and soft on the inside.”
In terms of decor, Mama Jo’s plans to paint Steve’s classic yellow and red walls white and infuse some of their farmhouse-inspired charm into the space. The idea is to make guests feel like they’re at their mom’s house, with vintage touches like CorningWare and Pyrex dishes. Jodi, who has experience with large-scale mural work, also plans to paint a mural featuring farm animals.
The Polsons are targeting a December opening, but cautioned that it will depend on the speed of inspections and any required upgrades to the space.
Mama Jo’s shares some similarities with the legendary hot dog spot, which was also helmed by a married couple – Steve and Linda Ballas – before closing in October. The Polsons are trying to keep some of Steve’s former employees on staff as well.
“We got to meet with Steve and explain what we’re doing, and he was really into the idea of another mom-and-pop taking over what he created. He liked our menu and concept too, and he really pushed for us,” Ben shared.
According to the Polsons, you may even see Steve in the dining area once Mama Jo’s opens. “He’s been clear that once we get into the building he wants to be around to help us in any way he can, he’s been very kind with offering his assistance,” Jodi concluded.
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