As December neared its close, influencers were left shouting “London’s streets are no longer safe” as high-ticket items, from Birkin bags to Rolex watches, increasingly became markers for thieves. One £10,000 Hermès bag was pinched from an Oxford Street changing room; another rare £150,000 Hermès Kelly was taken as part of a £10m house raid in Primrose Hill.
But as noticeably expensive handbags are locked in safes, the It bag vacuum looks set to be filled by more subtle clutches as we move into 2025.
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Enter Erdem Moralıoğlu, London’s aesthete fashion hero, who finally launched his first leather handbag line at the end of 2024. The Bloom bag “is hand-crafted in Italy, made with one piece of leather, while the handle is made using the lost wax casting method used in fine jewellery”, he says. Its smooth leather finish in a muted selection of shades — black, olive, pale rose, white — and delicate but unassuming gold-tone brass flower bud handles hits an elegant, not flashy, note (though they remain an investment, starting at £1,495, erdem.com).
Kate Winslet wore her large, white version to a carol service with Sienna Miller. Other A-list fans of the Bloom bag count Demi Moore, Linda Evangelista and Andrea Riseborough. “It felt like something I wanted to do before the label turned 20 and started with my last collection, which really got me thinking about different iterations of accessories and the idea of crafting something,” Moralıoğlu says. “I began by contemplating the character, gestures, and poise of the many women and muses who have inspired the narratives of all my collections, alongside a life-long fascination with the language of flowers.”
It plays into what Depop trend experts have dubbed the “minimalist renaissance”, “characterized by a return to understated elegance” per their 2025 Fashion Trends Report. “Clean lines, neutral colors, and timeless wardrobe staples dominate this trend… as consumers move away from flashy logos and excessive decoration in favor of quality craftsmanship.”
“Vintage markets are flourishing as shoppers seek enduring, high-quality pieces that offer long-term value. Leading brands like COS and The Row epitomize this sophisticated, minimalist approach,” it continues.
On the high street, JW Pei, Arket and Uniqlo all join COS in producing logo-free, toned-down bags allowing for a quieter look. DeMellier and Staud offer mid-range styles, while The Row counts Toteme, Loro Piana, Loewe, and Alaïa as its top end peers.
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