IT WAS A crammed flight. Most of the passengers squirmed. Some whimpered. A few even cried. One barked complaints in the direction of the cockpit. In some ways this was not unlike a cut-rate trip on a budget carrier; in others it was exceptional. Everyone within eyeshot stared intensely at your correspondent, as if looking for an answer and assurance about what would happen next. The smell—a mix of dog and cat hair, urine, faeces and stress—was overpowering.
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