Icons Only: From Royalty to Gen Z, Longchamp’s Le Pliage Is the Ultimate “It” Bag

There are It bags. And then there are classic forever bags. Longchamp’s Le Pliage, somehow, manages to be both. It’s part quiet luxury, part Y2K revival. Part preppy meets minimalist meets prepared-for-anything. It’s one of the most practical—and most affordable—designer bags you can own. No wonder it has achieved cult status with stylish people the world over.

Now, with millions of views on TikTok and the Gen Z stamp of approval, this foldaway canvas tote is experiencing a renaissance. According to fashion search engine The Lyst Index, the Le Pliage Neo XS was ranked as the eighth hottest item at the tail end of 2024, putting it in the same league as the season’s cult buys including the Alaïa fishnet ballet flats and Toteme’s country jacket. Already a common sighting in airport terminals, office blocks and gym lockers, now, it’s on the front row of fashion week, too.

Thinking of joining the fold? Let’s unpack precisely what makes Le Pliage a modern icon.

The Birth of an Icon

Longchamp Le Pliage: The stylish history of the It bag

Born in the ’90s (1993, to be precise), the Le Pliage was designed by Philippe Cassegrain (son of Longchamp’s founder Jean Cassegrain) who was inspired by the art of origami on a trip to Japan. It’s named after the French verb “to fold” and can be reduced to the size of a paperback book in just four simple steps, making it a first class travel companion.

Not only is it spacious and portable, it’s crafted from an ultra-light, extra-strong nylon canvas which is washable, too. Plus, it comes equipped with a full top zip and a snap-closing leather flap making it super secure, and two top leather handles which are comfortable to carry even when filled to the brim. The bag’s distinctive shape is instantly recognisable, yet it’s practically logoless, save for Longchamp’s signature galloping horse motif, in honour of the Paris racecourse from which the brand takes its name. This timeless appeal makes it multigenerational—a fact reflected in the maison’s own in-house repair service, with craftspeople at its Segré workshop restoring almost 60,000 bags each year.

Finding Fame

The tote was once the preserve of chic Parisians, who desired a dependable errand bag to carry their groceries. But it wasn’t long before London’s Sloane Rangers caught on. During the 2010s, the tote cultivated a cult following among the era’s It-girls, from Kate Moss to Katie Holmes to Kate Middleton. A special shout out to Alexa Chung’s iconic Indie Sleaze era, which saw her uniform of wide brim hats, Breton tops and denim dungarees often accessorised with a particularly memorable kitten-print Le Pliage.

Alexa Chung carries a kitten print Le Pliage bag

But the bag is best known for finding favour amongst upper crust Chelsea girls, including gaining the royal seal of approval. In fact, Catherine, Princess of Wales has been a fan since her pre-royal days in 2005 when she first met Prince William—see her St Andrews graduation pics for proof. While she may have since ditched the Ugg boots of her Uni years, you’ll often still spot her (or members of her entourage) carrying this practical tote on royal tours. Alt style icon Princess Anne is a fan, too, favouring the large navy version, often styled together with wraparound shades and her signature chignon.

Although Le Pliage has been a consistent bestseller for the brand for over three decades, the recent surge in Le Pliage content on TikTok is driving record sales. Some laud it as the ideal “book bag” for students. Others, a perfect “beginner designer bag”. There’s even a subsect devoted to the bag organisers sold on Amazon which are made to fit perfectly inside Le Pliage.

Legions of new fans including Lila Moss, Kendall Jenner, Emma Roberts and Mia Regan have helped boost the bag’s appeal amongst a new generation, along with endorsement from the stars of Netflix’s most bingeable hits, from Joe Locke and Kizzy Edgell in Heartstopper to Aimee Lou Wood from Sex Education and Bridgerton’s India Amarteifio. Our cultural obsession for Parisian chic also ensures Longchamp’s continued popularity (Lily Collins sported a neon yellow netted Le Pliage in season two of Emily in Paris).

The Le Pliage’s Evolution

Le Pliage’s design may not have changed since it was first launched, but that doesn’t mean your options are limited.

The original tote bag is crafted from recycled canvas, available in 7 colours from classic black to tomato red, and comes in medium (£110) or large (£120), the latter of which is big enough to fit a 13-inch laptop. There’s also a Le Pliage backpack (£140), a travel holdall in three sizes including an expandable version (from £140), a small handbag (£100) designed to be carried by hand, as well as a dinky Pouch (£80) which doubles as a makeup bag.

Le Pliage Xtra offers the same iconic design but reimagined in leather at an elevated price point, while Le Pliage Green champions eco-friendly recycled materials. Others are tailored to suit a specific purpose. For the best gym bag, try the sports inspired Le Pliage Energy. Or if you’re headed to the beach, Le Pliage Basket is made from a super summery weave. If it’s a stylish supermarket bag for life you’re after, Le Pliage Filet is defined by its netted mesh body, inspired by the string shoppers used by Parisian grandmothers.

Limited edition seasonal styles can be found under the Le Pliage Collection category—the newest members of the family for spring/summer 2025 include a slouch-style knotted handle style with a cute gingham and artichoke print, as well as a textured raffia net bag handmade in collaboration with female collective NGO Anaka.

Over the years, there have been countless cult collaborations too, with limited edition designs from the likes of Toiletpaper, Tracey Emin, Jeremy Scott, Thomas Heatherwick and Pokémon proving gold-dust on resale markets. You can even have a go at designing your own. With My Pliage Signature customisation service, you can choose the shape, colours, trimmings and add your own numbers or initials for a true one-of-a-kind icon.